A calendar fittingly called Love Letters to the Muse, a seductive title, effortlessly encapsulates the beauty that lies within its pages. Dedicated to the women that provide a light in the dark when in search of inspiration, the 49th edition of the Pirelli Calendar brings together 28 shots of 14 globally-adored models by Emma Summerton. The acclaimed Australian photographer is the fifth female maestro to capture the calendar since its first edition back in 1964. Before her, legends like Inez Van Lamsveerde, Annie Leibovitz, Joyce Tenenson and Sarah Moon held the torch. Beginning her career in the 2000s, she has shot for almost every Vogue title, hitting her 50 Vogue cover mark this year, as well as lensing editorials here at 10 and cutting her teeth at W Magazine, Glamour and Dazed among other publications and impressive commercial projects. Here, shot across New York and London, captured in Summerton’s familiar dreamy style, this new, mystical calendar comes to life.
“For the Calendar, I wanted to go back to the etymological root of the word ‘muse,’” she says, “the muse originally represented the source, not just inspiring but also possessing talents in literature, science and the arts.” She goes on to explain how she is “fascinated by women who do extraordinary, creative things”, and women who, beginning with her mother, have inspired her throughout my life and career. “People I’ve learnt a lot from: writers, photographers, poets, actresses and directors,” she says. “So my idea was to celebrate these extraordinary women and create a world in which to represent them.”
At first, she pulled from the myriad artistic themes that live in her personal portfolio to inform the imagery: surrealism and magical realism, beauty and wild nature, her love of flowers and wild branches and the power of the animal kingdom. Paired with the symbolism each has within art, poetry, music and literature, her initial moodboard was a sublime mosaic. It featured the work of Vali Myers, remnants or Summerton’s teenage obsession with Marilyn Monroe, the songs of Chrissy Amphlett and image of Italian actress Monica Vitti who remind her of her mother, and female surrealist painters such as Leonora Carrington, Remedios Varo and Gertrude Abercrombie. Upon studying it, Summerton saw the red thread linking every image to a catalysing theme: the woman and the muse.
Leafing through the calendar, which was also directed by Carlo Alberto Orecchia, a highflying lineup of supermodels materialise, beginning with Lila Moss who takes on the role of “The Seer”. Guinevere Van Seenus appears next, becoming “The Photographer” – the catalyst muse for Summerton’s visual concept – followed by Adwoa Aboah, “The Queen”. “The Tech Savant” is aptly played by Karlie Kloss, who in her ethereal portrait loves teaching coding in a futuristic virtual reality landscape. “The Painter” is described by Sasha Pivovarova. After is Lauren Wasser in a valiant stance, donning a spiralling golden bodysuit and a sword like a future-mediaeval warrior; she is “The Athlete”. Emily Ratajkowski, portrayed with the two sides of her face reflected in a mirror, becomes “The Writer”, and Cara Delevingne, transforms into “The Performer”. Of course, Bella Hadid has her place in the almanack too – in August – dripping in seashells, pearls and almost invisible mesh, revealing only as much of herself as she wants you to know: she is “The Sprite”. “The Musician” follows, portrayed by Kaya Wilkins whose lyrics are inspired by a raven, cast against a bohemian backdrop. Then it’s Precious Lee in October donning metallics as ”The Storyteller” and He Cong as “The Sage”, painted in all her innate serenity and kindness, coming to life as if in a dream. As the year comes to a close, Adut Akech personifies “The Dream Catcher” and finally, Ashley Graham looks resplendent, splayed upon a couch in gold sculpted body armour, embodying “The Activist”.
It’s clear that each model has close affinities with the “muse” they represent on the page, which in a way pays tribute and speaks to each of their greater selves. “In my shots, the borderline between the role that the models play and what they really are is not clearly defined and everything blends together to create images that sing to magical realism,” she explains. It’s as though her eye heightens reality.
Photography by Emma Summerton.
