13 February 2023 |
Equal parts Morticia Addams and Queen Mab.
Leave it to Rodarte to kick off New York Fashion Week with a show that flooded everyone’s social media feeds. Upon walking into the space, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, you had a sense that something special was about to happen, as the runway was dotted with elaborately set dining tables. Everything from the candles to the fruit to the bagels were covered in a coat of glitter — a dinner party where no one eats but everyone was dressed to be seen seemed a fitting way to begin the week.
Set to music by Tori Amos, the show began with a series of black dresses that appeared to be plucked straight out of Morticia Addams’ closet. Featuring dramatic sleeves that trailed behind as the models walked, there was plenty of lace trim, velvet, and veils as well. It was the stuff of dreams for any goth-loving bride, which the brand seemed to acknowledge by sending several models down the runway with black calla lily bouquets paired with elaborate bonnets.
For fans of the brand, there was a little callback to their cobwebbed knits from their fall 2008 collection halfway through the show. If the indie sleaze era is truly making a comeback, perhaps this is the way to do it?
From there it was straight to the Land of the Fae, with ear cuffs that were made to resemble pointy ears, jagged crowns, and even a pair of lacy purple wings. In case you needed more of an overt reference, those looks were followed shortly by a series of silk maxis that featured illustrations of fairies, which were drawn by their mother. But perhaps nothing was more definitive than the next to last look — a massive tulle creation made for Queen Mab as she rules over her land complete with silver wings and a matching crown.
To match the moody setting, the makeup was equally as dark and glamorous with thick, sharp cat eyes that extended into mask-like lines across the brows and cheekbones. Paired with black lipstick, expect to see these looks to be immediately recreated by TikTok makeup creators. Also worth noting: the sharp nails that accompanied a few looks — it appeared to be extensions made of silver metal and black lace, as if the dress had morphed itself into matching claws.
If social media buzz is a measure of success, Rodarte seems to be the frontrunner for the most talked about show of the week and a reminder that whenever they don’t show in New York, they’re sorely missed.
Text by Diana Tsui Inst @chupsterette | Twit @chupsterette.
Photography courtesy of Rodarte.
