1 March 2024 |
Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry has such a powerful point of view that he’s taken the brand from zero to red carpet hero in his five year tenure. His couture reverberates through the culture, acting as a lightening rod for the mood of the moment. His ready-to-wear has a different function. It’s more focused on creating charismatic wardrobe pieces that make real life feel extra, or as the designer described in his show notes “fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections for the daily lives of our clientele.“
Roseberry doesn’t do basic. Instead he talked about turning the volume up “to Schiaparelli settings”. Blasting Janet Jackson’s “Rhythm Nation” his models stormed the catwalk in strong-shouldered trouser suits worn with ties (made from plaited hair) that brought to mind Peter Lindbergh shoots in 1990s Italian Vogue featuring Linda Evangilista in mannish suit and tie giving sexy androgyny. The outerwear was statement and stand-out. Tweedy check jackets and brushed white wool, curved over the body creating sn hourglass look. Quilted silk bombers came with a witty six pack detail and mock croc patent was supersized on caban coats and worn with matching tight boots for a total look.
Roseberry, was born in Dallas and is a champion of the Texan tux. This season, double denim appeared as a slouchy trouser suit. Roseberry’s ready-to-wear stands out from the crowd. He lavishes detail on his clothes, elevating them to new levels – creating a distinctly Schiaparelli vocabulary of house signatures. Lapels were trimmed with measuring tape embroidery, jackets and coats had rib cage embroidery, a keyhole cut out decorated the front of an LBD and all his tailoring had jewel-like gold and enamel buttons, each one different to the next. Add oversized hoop earrings, his surrealist mini totes, and ‘tape measure’ strappy sandals, and you have the esprit de Schiaparelli.
Every piece, he said was, “designed to tickle, thrill and even to shock – to bring a touch of psycho-chic to both wearer and viewer alike.” That it did.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
