29 September 2023 |
Quiet luxury isn’t in Daniel Roseberry’s vocabulary. The Schiaparelli designer describes his ready-to-wear as “an exercise in making the everyday come to more vivid, more surprising life”. After revitalising the house with his surrealist couture (a favourite amongst the celeb elite), now it’s his turn to give day-to-day dressing a dash of pizazz.
With a wink and a nudge, he presented sharp tailored jackets with measuring tape trailing the plunging neckline – an old Elsa Schiaparelli trick – worn alongside raw Japanese denim cargos paired with ladylike tweed jackets, and liquid-y black satin evening wear. Until now, the American designer has always been conscious not to rely too much on Schiaparelli insignias, instead frosting his collections with Elsa easter eggs. Here, he let himself dive head-first into the archive, dressing up a floor-length skirt with a lobster at the crotch, also envisioning jumbo crabs as gold necklaces and littering suit jackets with cigarettes, lipsticks and even spilt crimson nail polish. He anchored looks with clutch bags shaped like puckered-up lips and sneakers with trompe l’oeil, gold-plated toes – prepped and primed to bring Schiaparelli to the street.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
