24 February 2025 |
Denim, faux fur, and leather looks were the name of the game.
Nostalgia seemed to be top of mind for Simone Rocha’s fall 2025 show. Per the show notes, Rocha was distilling the past for the present. She looked to Aesop’s The Tortoise & The Hare as a source of inspiration, as it was a favorite of the headmistress when she was in school. School archetypes and teen angst, all fittingly set to a Thom Yorke soundtrack was the theme of the night. Whether it was jocks, rebels, emo kids, or the arty types, they all found a home in Rocha’s world.
The fable references were evident from the get-go, with faux fur bunnies slung and carried by the models as well as little turtle shaped figurines were clutched to the chest accenting several looks. As for the cast of teen characters? It served as a chance for Rocha to delve into sportier and more casual fare, albeit with her signature finishing touches. Jocks were given polo and rugby shirts trimmed with ruffles while leather harnesses and puff sleeved jackets reflected the rebellious spirit associated with adolescence. Classic denim even made an appearance in the form of cinched jackets and torn jeans adorned with pearls. Even so, Rocha’s signature feminine designs were also a huge part of the mix. From ribbon adorned tops and dresses to carwash skirts and dresses to the voluminous silk dresses that closed out the runway, her fans will easily find their new favorite wardrobe additions.
And speaking of fans, this time around Rocha decided to take some of her famous supporters and make them models. The designer has a penchant for creative casting, with the likes of actress Chloe Sevigny and Helmut Newton muse Marie Sophie Wilson among those who have walked her show in the past. This time she tapped the likes of Alexa Chung and Bel Powley, both front row regulars, to make a catwalk appearance. Also among the lineup was actress Fiona Shaw. Clad in the penultimate look, the Harry Potter star showcased the brand’s ability to span the generations.
One thing that’s always a given when it comes to Rocha is that she has a vision. Many will credit her for single handedly bringing back the ribbon bow in all its delightful forms, but that’s always been a part of her world. Every show is a carefully plotted step in her narrative, with a throughline that can easily be plucked out. If spring 2024’s roses led to spring 2025’s carnations, then fall 2024’s furry creatures paved the way for this season’s abundance of faux fur. It’ll be interesting to see the next chapters.
