16 September 2024 |
Excuse us while we scream, laugh, and cry.
A proper runway show when done correctly should make you feel something inside. Ideally it should spark a sense of joy, wonderment, and delight. No one evokes those emotions better in London than Simone Rocha. With show notes that start off with the words screaming, crying, laughing, dying, flirting, it’s clear that Rocha knows how to set a mood. Staged in the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales, which is more commonly known as the Old Bailey, applause could be heard over the loudspeaker as the show began. It was a fitting start as Rocha noted that she wanted to lift the curtain, with moments that highlight the in between of perfection and progress – the lead up to the performance itself.
Opening with a severe black coat coupled with pink ballet flats, the looks quickly segued into tutu-inspired tulle creations. In shades of blush and red with dashes of green, they reflect the girlishness that the brand is beloved for. Scattered throughout, serving as sharp contrast, were sweaters and bodysuits featuring Genieve Figgis’ work that leaned heavy on the ghoulish and macabre. After all, what would Rocha be with a sharp edge to all the sweetness?
From there Rocha transitioned into what seemingly appeared to be a revisiting of her beautiful tulle and floral creations from spring 2024 albeit with a twist. Carnations replaced roses as the stem of choice – a reference to how gentlemen have traditionally worn them in the buttonholes of jackets during formal events. Stuffed into the bust, clutched in the arms, and embroidered onto suiting, Rocha transformed a flower that is often overlooked and considered a cheap filler option in bouquets, into a work of art. The petals even made it into the beauty look, painstakingly applied to the face as a mask around the eyes of two models.
Speaking of humble beginnings to finery, denim also made an appearance, albeit in a way that made sense for the brand. From low slung jeans trimmed in pearls and worn with a bralette to a coordinating shacket and shorts set to a cinched jacket worn over a tutu, it was elegant, cool, and youthful. To end the show, a bevy of evening wear ranging from slinky silk dresses to gauzy options to barely there bodysuits with chain overlays. Real Simone fans know though, that a show is not complete without a voluminous moment and that she delivered. The last three looks were larger than life – so much so that the final model had to pivot to the side due to the narrow nature of the runway in parts. A fitting finish for women who aren’t afraid to draw attention to themselves.
It’d be remiss not to mention the accessories, all of which will be surefire hits next season. Instead of eggs, stars, or wedding cakes, the new perspex bag of the season is in the shape of a swan. Also destined for social media virality are the tulle bags, which look like a fluff of fabric floating in the arms of models. As for the long dangling earrings and sparkly barrettes, expect them to adorn the ears and heads of the brand’s fans. And finally, the wildly successful collaboration with Crocs gets another season, likely selling as briskly as the first drop did earlier this year.
Rocha ended her show notes by saying she wanted to poke, tease, and please. Consider us all of the above.
