24 February 2024 |
A vast room lit with luminous, ceiling-tall panels of deep red and black greeted Milan Fashion Week-goers as they took their seats for Sportmax’s AW24 offering entitled Camera Obscura. As the lights shut off to announce the beginning of the presentation, the strings of Teho Teardo’s ‘L’insonnia delle rondini’ swelled before red, neon lights lit up the runway and the first look walked out. Donning razor-sharp silhouettes, mesh panelling and tightly corseted waists, the procession of messy-haired models that ensued left one word swimming about the thoughts of onlookers – formidable.
The palette was predominantly muted, consisting of black and navy, but with a consistent strain of bright and unavoidable pops of red. Taking inspiration from German singer Nico and the mysterious nature of her Camera Obscura album, the pieces also bounced off the magnetism of ‘80s music stars like Grace Jones, Debbie Harry and Annie Lennox. Paying homage to this theme, prints of the stars’s faces popped up across shirts, knits, dresses and jackets. The inclusion of scrunched waistbands, reminiscent of boxing shorts, enhanced the idea that the Sportmax woman is not to be tussled with. Details carved from plush velvet gave the collection an understated opulence, whilst dresses constructed from materials with a patent finish demonstrated its night-ready element.
Accessories were a particular hit, with strappy and pointed-toe heels acting as the perfect supplement to the slick and austere looks. Dark-hued aviator sunglasses added to the offering’s menacing air whilst bags in the shape of half-open buckets were a welcome, unconventional addition.
Photography courtesy of Sportmax.
