Entitled Citizens Band, Stefan Cooke’s AW24 collection was all about experimental shaping. Cooke and his partner Jake Burt, who run the brand together, took inspiration from a vintage CB radio scrapbook and the graphics found inside it, making the 30-look offering feel both retro and up-to-date. Character-driven garments were created with attendees of an Upper West dance school in mind, using the work of renowned New York photographer Amy Arbus as a key point of inspiration.
Necklines were structured and geometric, while a distinctive thin leather was used to form tops that cinched in at the waist. Trousers bounced between skinny and loose-fitting, and mini skirts flapped and flounced with handkerchief-like details sewn onto their sides and fronts. Grey joggers got the Stefan Cooke treatment, taking form as breakdancing trousers with an occasional pop of colour. Jacket sleeves were given fish gill-like slits and raw-edged midi skirts swished just under the knee. Graphics were a key feature, with hand-drawn typography appearing across jerseys, knits and jackets. Reworked sports shirts played into the vintage feel of the collection, with some even sporting the names of previous collections on their back to arouse a sense of continuity.
Accessories were a hit, with the brand’s classic bowling bag popping up throughout. Shiny, metal collars that featured a concealed headphone gave the looks that slight contemporary air, whilst floppy, high-sitting hats made the collection feel truly unique. Light-hearted and effortlessly cool, this one was a winner.
Photography courtesy of Stefan Cooke.
