10 February 2024 |
How do you follow up to a critically acclaimed spring 2024 collection? For Willy Chavarria the answer was turn yourself into a film director. Kicking off his AW24 show with a short film, Safe From Harm featured an all-star cast including models Paloma Elsesser and Dilone, trans-visibility activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal, and singer-songwriter Mahmood. Clad in branded underwear as well as looks that would later appear in the show, Chavarria explore; themes of love, angst, and protection.
As the 11-minute movie ended, the mood quickly shifted as the runway show began. Featuring 37 looks, Chavarria paraded his signature voluminous pants, track suits, as well as suiting as seen through the lens of his Mexican-American heritage. Cowboy hats, veils, and glittery accents served to amplify sharp angled jackets and slouchy joggers alike. One noticeable shift was also the appearance of slimmer silhouettes – Chavarria told The New York Times that “everybody is now doing my oversize trousers.” The casting, as always, was an excellent grouping of the designer’s community with a diverse mix of real people turned runway models, actual models, as well as a few friends including Carlos Nazario, who pulled double duty as both stylist and catwalker.
As each look took their place on the candlelit table set up in front, who else could close the show but Chavarria himself? The designer took a lap to the cheers of the crowd, some who showered him with red roses that were placed on each seat. After taking his place among the tableau, the final piece in a modern day Last Supper, the room erupted in more applause. For a designer who had to create a compelling follow up, it seems that Chavarria’s community can agree it was a rousing success.
Photography by Bella Macgregor.
