The cavernous showspace inside Fondazione Prada, with its vast concrete walls, looks like it could house a rave of spectacular proportions. Though this season, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had their sights on a more intimate get-together. A white shack resembling that of a house party watched over the winding catwalk, as the basslines of Faithless’s ‘Insomnia’ thumped from within. Describing it as their own “fairytale ravescape”, in their show notes, the pair spoke of the “the human urge for proximity, to share space and commune”. Many pieces on display warranted you to lean in closer to get a proper look at their construction. Like what appeared to be shirts worn under jumpers that were actually singular primary coloured knits. Or baggy, bootcut slacks that had belts built into their dropped waistlines.
Backstage, the design duo spoke of a “youthful optimism” that was laced throughout the collection, leaning into a spontaneous approach to dressing. Shrunken V-neck knits, creased suiting and womanly pea coats crumpled and squished in delightfully awkward formations looked as if the Prada boy had rummaged through his parents’ wardrobe before heading to the party. “We wanted to create clothes that have lived a life, that are alive in themselves,” said the pair.
Dancefloor-ready visor sunglasses stamped with snapshots of race cars, seaside retreats and concert-goers completed the offering, which spoke of an innocent sense of freedom. “Youth is the future. It is hope,” said Simons post show. “We wanted to do something that would express youthful optimism because the times are so bad.”
Photography courtesy of Prada.