Sarah Burton’s first standalone menswear collection for Givenchy was presented inside the house’s Avenue George V headquarters, where three rooms lined with British artist Rachel Whiteread’s casts of wardrobe interiors turned the presentation into something quietly voyeuristic. The idea was simple: a wardrobe built around the pieces men actually wear, elevated through Burton’s razor-sharp eye for cut.
The foundations were familiar enough – double-breasted suits, crisp white shirts, bombers, biker jackets, workwear sets and roomy trousers – but Burton kept nudging them into fresh territory. Lapels were sliced away, jackets tipped slightly forward and tailoring skimmed the body with an ease that never slipped into slouchiness. There was plenty of volume, but it was controlled, giving every look a relaxed confidence.
Then came the fun. Leather rugby shirts and buttery tracksuits landed in punchy shades of yellow, cobalt and scarlet, while an almost highlighter-bright satin car coat lit up the room. Embroidered MA-1s, tapestry-knit florals and embellished evening jackets brought flashes of decoration, balanced by the clean simplicity of everything around them. Even the chunky skate trainers felt right, grounding the sharper looks with a touch of irreverence.
Burton’s menswear debut didn’t try to reinvent the wheel. Instead, she focused on getting the essentials exactly right, tweaking proportions, sharpening silhouettes and injecting just enough personality to make familiar pieces feel genuinely desirable. It was a strong first outing and a wardrobe that already feels like it knows exactly who it’s dressing – plus, there’s plenty to add to cart.
Photography courtesy of Givenchy.