11 September 2024 |
For the Coach spring/summer 2025 collection, creative director Stuart Vevers took inspiration from the new generation of New Yorkers. Set above Manhattan’s west side on the Spur of the High Line, the runway buzzed with the city’s energy as the first model turned the corner in an embellished I Heart NY tee.
“My vision for spring was to show real clothes in a real, relevant, urban environment,” said Vevers in his show notes. “But we’re redesigning these clothes, keeping in mind the values of a new generation that is discovering these pieces for the first time.”
Taking a page from Gen Z’s book of nostalgia, Vevers looked to the youth of yore—but saw archetypal pieces through the eyes of young people today: the silky minidresses of ‘60s Mods, DIY tees and stovepipe leather trousers of ‘70s punks, oversized tailoring a la ‘80s New Wave, and the ultra-roomy chinos made popular by ‘90s skaters. Denim trousers, moto skirts, and aviator jackets were crafted from post-consumer garments.
The collection also featured Coach’s new Soho Sneaker, but the runway versions were distressed and embellished with stickers, scribbles, and charms featuring vintage cars, cassette tapes, and other ephemera. Handbags ran the gamut from playful shapes like hearts, stars, and dinosaurs to ladylike top-handles in candy colors and capacious clutch bags based on a 1969 Bonnie Cashin design.
“We’ve taken very archetypal pieces and made them unique to the wearer, with the proportions, with the styling, and with very playful embellishments that call into question the idea of traditional ‘luxury.’ I think what’s more valuable today is something that’s personal,” said Vevers.
Coach’s reimagined American classics were a celebration of self. While each piece was approachable, they were made special through styling. All it takes is an unexpected accessory, interesting detail, or lived-in quality to take a look up a notch—and no one does that better than New Yorkers.
