11 September 2024 |
New York-based brand Diotima focused its SS25 collection on reconstructing the warm, ethereal memories of summer. Inspired by the concept of a vivid Caribbean dream, founder Rachel Scott embraced the brand’s core tenet of a seductive interpretation of Jamaican style.
Symbolic elements nodding to sun-drenched summertime rituals that take place by the island’s rivers were abstracted across the garments. Broderie anglaise lace referenced the palm trees or weed leaves that dot the Caribbean’s natural landscape. Pieces that mirrored those worn in Jamaica’s undiscovered traditions were romanticised, expressed in blood-red crochet headscarves and opaque tights worn under white dresses.
The influence of dancehall ran throughout, visible in the tension between proper attire and the sensuality of the genre. Silver-studded paillettes shimmered on the delicate straps of satin dresses with georgette skirts. Mesh gowns sprayed with crystals were paired with platform wedge sandals, emulating the spirit of the women that commanded dancehall spaces in the early ‘00s.
Knitwear and embellishments mirrored the fluidity of the Caribbean sea, with intarsia knit edited with a looped fringe to mimic the movement of sargassum algae, whilst melted paillettes were used to parallel oyster shells or barnacles cascading down the fabric.
A triumphantly beautiful collection that reaffirmed Diotima’s connection to its roots, it was a stellar season for Scott and her team.
Photography by Deirdre Lewis.
