23 October 2024 |
Hedi Slimane’s last collection was an ode to the untroubled 60s Parisian girl.
As rain beat down over a dreary Paris, Hedi Slimane released his final divination for Celine—a vision of the third coming of the untroubled Parisian girl of the ‘60s. As always, instead of a runway presentation, the Artistic Director opted for a nine-minute video. Titled Un Été Français and set in a bucolic estate outside Paris, it was inspired by Françoise Sagan’s book La Chamade (That Mad Ache), the music of Nico and the Velvet Underground, and nostalgic callbacks to the English “Lolitas” he shot in 2003. If the first resurrection of the ‘60s came in the early aughts with Indie Twee, then Slimane is betting on another resurgence. With the return of skinny jeans and boho bags already here, the prophecy seems particularly likely.
Slimane’s strength as a designer has always been to reference music in a way that appeals to a broader audience. Here it’s the Parisian Yé-yé musicians, an escapist genre led by female vocalists like Sylvie Vartan. With lyrics that playfully feign innocence, drawing from the posture of British and American rock, it’s an ideal fit for the cast of elfin-like models. As they walked down a hallway in a series of embroidered shift dresses with two-toned feathers or sequins, styled with Juliette Greco eyeliner and Annabelle Buffet helmet bobs, you’re quick to fall into this dreamy world. Featuring matching skirt sets, Brigitte Bardo-esque silk headbands, doll-like bows, and three-piece François Hardy style suits, it conjures the spirit of other iconic French women like Jane Birkin.
The thing with clothes is that they can only bring out so much in the wearer. It’s up to her to summon the attitude. For this season, the clothes are at their best when they provide the tools to live, conspire, or provoke. The pleated knee-length cashmere skirts allow for movement and lounging; the black silk shift dresses emphasize the neck and legs, plus are roomier along the waist, welcoming any gastronomic indulgences. The best look was a sleeveless black silk sheath dress with a tall white ruffle that envelops the wearer’s chest, neck, and back like the scallop shell around Aphrodite. These are looks to chase tantalizing nights in.
On Wednesday, October 2nd, Celine announced this would be Slimane’s last collection for the label, and the video ends with chandeliers falling in an empty ballroom. Was this a final mic drop? As rumors swell over who might take over Chanel, this collection makes the case for Slimane’s hiring—this would have easily made for the best Chanel collection of the last ten years. He remodeled Celine and Saint Laurent to his taste to great commercial success. Is tweed next?
