Jonathan Anderson presented a garden (well, greenhouse) full of modern delights.
If it’s Dior day, chances are the fashion crowd will be gathering at the Tuileries. And so Jonathan Anderson presented his second women’s ready-to-wear collection at one of Paris’ most iconic locations. But instead of the customary tent, Anderson opted instead to construct a greenhouse around the Bassin Octogonal. Featuring artificial flowers floating in the water and Dior-branded green park chairs (miniatures were given as the invite), it might have been a fall 2026 runway but the mood felt like a harbinger for spring.
Anderson has made it a point to connect the dots in his work, with aspects from his men’s collection reappearing in his womenswear and vice versa. Per his show notes, two pieces of literature informed this collection, both set in Paris. There’s Charles Baudelaire’s ode to a beautiful woman, “À une passante”, which is a part of Les Fleurs du Mal — a book that was among the titles featured on the newly revamped book tote. Those totes, if you recall, debuted as a part of Anderson’s first collection for Dior. The second is Radclyffe Hall’s The Well of Loneliness, a 1928 queer romance which tells the tale of Stephen Gordon and Mary Llewellyn, two lesbians who find love, loss, and freedom in the fragile years between wars.
Alternating between the masc and femme sensibilities of the protagonists, Anderson calls back to his prior runway shows. That can be seen from the get-go with the opening looks and their cinched tops and frilly skirts bringing to mind the petaled minidresses from haute couture spring 2026 as well as the silhouettes introduced for fall 2025. Bar jackets, a tailoring staple that’s been reimagined for both men and women, make an appearance. Whether worn with slouchy trousers or over delicate knee length petaled skirts that are visual nods to the iconic Junon gown, it’s evident that Anderson knows how to incorporate the rich history of the brand into modern, striking designs. Swirling, rich textiles be it cut as a robe or as a gown harkened back to his last men’s collection, which drew from the work of Paul Poiret as much as it did Monsieur Dior himself.
Speaking of Monsieur Dior and his love of flowers, blooms weren’t just limited to the opening looks. A yellow dress recalled the curvature of lilies while there were also raffia flowers scattered across a lace dress. Even the shoes were a nod to the scenery, as seen in a pair of waterlily thongs. And because Anderson isn’t without a sense of humor, other accessories matched the garden theme, including a fun frog purse. It all ties back into his vision of the future of Dior: playful, beautiful, and most of all, desirable. Expect to see plenty of these pieces pop up on the slew of ambassadors signed onto the brand as seen via the stacked front row which included the likes of Charlize Theron, Jisoo, and Anya Taylor-Joy. As for the rest of us? Expect all of the beautiful coats to be a worthy investment come June when the collection hits stores.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.