6 March 2026 |
“Disruption can’t happen in a vacuum”, said Off-White creative director IB Kamara. It needs to be ignited and inspired, it needs the spark of dialogue. For his own performance of disruption, Kamara chose an ancient cloister in the Latin quarter of the Parisian left bank, dotting the space with giant green spheres – chaos personified. The perfect backdrop for the Off-White AW26 show.
Titled Mr Davis, the show owed its inspiration to Miles Davis’ age-defining music, blending jazz, rock, funk and electronic. But the creative phase Kamara was most interested in was the one that emerged during his whirlwind romance with pioneering singer and songwriter Betty Davis. A radical figure who sparked Davis’ artistic disruption, Betty was the inspiration behind his famed, experimental Bitches Brew record.
The whole collection was imbued with the genre-bending energy of Miles, with menswear and womenswear rhythmically alternating between his irresistible funk and Betty’s daring, unapologetic sensuality. Each look was a study of contrasts: structure and fluidity, precision and sensuality. When silhouettes were sharp, they were softened by brightly coloured lace and unexpected transparencies. Polka dots took over, studding the looks like notes on a musical score. Bringing an Off-White touch to the delicate rigour of the polka-dot circle was the house’s Meteor code, with bold, disruptive eyelets embellishing denim jeans as well as fitted tops.
The opening look perfectly set the tone for the eclectic mix that followed, with a brown suede patchwork trench coat finished with blazing red logo embroidery. Blended with a series of house classics – see the big statement glasses, graphic zip-ups and bomber jackets – the show pulsed with dynamism, in shapes as in colour. Grounded neutrals met saturated red, acid blue, bright green and yellow, with the most vibrant hues peaking out through the lace details, embroideries and high lace-up stilettos defining the collection. A show favourite? The classic Off-White “Yesternow” graphic T-shirt.
Walking to the funk-infused sounds of Kamara’s second EP, Ms Davis, written, recorded and performed alongside Tendai and Fabiana Palladino especially around this show, the looks moved seamlessly between evening and workwear.
Upkeeping the legacy of the visionary founder of the house, late artist Virgil Abloh, Off-White delivered a collection tailor-made to dress the disruptive creatives of tomorrow.
Photography courtesy of Off-White.
