4 June 2026 |
For pre-fall 2026, Haider Ackermann continues his slow, deliberate excavation of the Tom Ford vocabulary, finding fresh tensions between severity and seduction. The result is a wardrobe built not around transformation but movement – through moods, cities and hours of the day.
The women’s collection opens with tailoring as its anchor. Long, sharp jackets skim the body with a controlled precision, worn over fluid trousers that pool softly at the ankle. There is a striking contrast between structure and ease throughout: masculine coats in charcoal wool and grey melange are offset by liquid satin dresses that fall in uninterrupted vertical lines, catching the light with every step. Leather arrives polished and commanding, cut close to the body in deep espresso and black, while plush shearling introduces a softer, tactile note.
Colour is used sparingly but effectively. A foundation of black, white, stone and chocolate brown is punctuated by flashes of lime green, sapphire blue and aqua, appearing like sudden streaks of light against an otherwise restrained backdrop. Even denim, a longstanding Tom Ford signature, feels sharpened and refined. Accessories follow the same graphic approach. Slingbacks are finished with a sculptural T-shaped stiletto heel, while oversized shoulder bags and rigid geometric clutches bring a clean architectural edge.
The men’s collection develops the same conversation, shifting between European polish and American ease. Ackermann’s Tom Ford man is a traveller, his wardrobe assembled from fragments of different worlds. Double-breasted suits are cut slim and exacting, their formality softened by silk shirts worn open at the neck. Elsewhere, smoking jackets trimmed with cravat-inspired details sit alongside jewel-toned suede blousons in rich sapphire, plum and moss green.
Texture does much of the work. Wool and cashmere tailoring carries a graceful drape, jacquard silks shimmer under light and buttery leather outerwear appears almost weightless. Even the more relaxed pieces – pyjama-inspired separates and faded jeans – retain a sense of polish. The silhouette remains lean but never rigid, defined by an effortless confidence rather than strict formality.
Across both collections, Ackermann’s instinct for elegance lies in the details: the sweep of a coat hem, the shine of satin against matte wool, the precise line of a loafer or boot. Rather than rewriting the Tom Ford codes, he deepens them, bringing new texture, colour and attitude to a house built on the language of desire.
Photography courtesy of Tom Ford.Â
