24 September 2026 |
“Fashion is shaped by the body” said Maria Grazia Chiuri of her soft, sensual, feminine SS27 Fendi collection. She stripped it back to the base layer and brought lingerie to the fore, crafting languid looks that expressed the lightness that she has put at the heart of her Fendi project. “For me, Fendi is about this lightness,” she said and expressed the idea with lace play suits or lace trimmed bras, and matching cami-knicker shorts worn with sheer pop-socks and a little fur stole. Skin was revealed and concealed as she used the delicate language of lingerie to full effect. Chiuri stripped back a dress-shirt to just the bib and paired it with those lace trimmed shorts. A jacket became just the placket with a little silk and lace bra beneath. Silk or lace slip dresses dipped into a low V at the front to reveal a silky bra. Graphic Deco diamond patterns were traced with open seams across one slip, slithers skin flashing beneath. It was one of many stunning and superbly crafted details that could only be appreciated from the catwalk photographs after the show or at the re-see.
Chiuri’s runway was sealed inside a mirrored glass box. The set was inspired by Italian artist Luciano Fabro’s Mirror Cube, but it made the more delicate details difficult to catch on the runway. That said, the big picture message, of lingerie lightness was clearly delivered and understood.
Chiuri anchored her ultra light wardrobe with folksy jackets traced with gold embroidery and introducing a seventies streak to the collection with lean dresses with daring cut aways and portholes at the waist. These were references to the stage costumes of 1970s Italian pop idol Raffaella Carrá. Many looks were paired with Baguette bags in a tiny new proportion, just big enough to hold a phone. For men, Chiuri explored that feeling of intimacy and skin-on-skin with silky light shirts dressing gown coats and draped trousers. Soft, supremely tactile and laced with luxurious craft and detail, Chiuri invites the Fendi customer to get up close and personal.
Photography courtesy of Fendi.
