ATHENA CALDERONE: TURNING HEADS

The designer and founder of Studio Athena Calderone has amassed more than 1.2 million followers on her @eyeswoon Instagram account, where she’ll document everything from her gorgeous New York homes that end up on the cover of design mags to her many brand extensions – wallpaper for Calico, furniture for The Future Perfect, or as a face for Chanel’s Coco Crush jewelry. An avid traveler, Calderone inspires instant wanderlust with her posts from Kyoto, Ibiza, and beyond. Personal ornamentation is also a passion. Here she shares which pieces of jewelry are most meaningful to her.

From left: Vintage Horn cuff with ivory cameo, Coco Crush bracelets in yellow gold, Coco Crush bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds, Coco Crush rings in yellow gold by CHANEL Fine Jewelry, Premiére Galon watch in yellow gold by CHANEL Watches, and engagement ring setting by EVA FEHREN; Diamant Evanescent Transformable necklace in 18k white gold with diamonds by CHANEL High Jewelry Collerette earrings in gilt silver by CLAUDE LALANNE; Lion Solaire De Chanel ring in 18k white gold with diamonds, Plume De Chanel ring in 18k white gold with diamonds, Comete Couture ring in 18k white gold with diamonds, and Diamant Evanescent ring in 18k white gold with diamonds by CHANEL High Jewelry

Why did you select these pieces to be photographed in?

The vintage Claude Lalanne and Jean Després pieces beautifully unite my creative worlds. Like me, each was tied to the world of interiors, furniture, and jewelry design. Much of their work was at the forefront of my self-study into early 20th-century design during the renovation of my Tribeca apartment. For this story, I hand-selected pieces from their archive to express my own love of interiors and jewelry. Additionally, over the past five-plus years, I have built a beautiful relationship with Chanel that culminated in an ambassadorship. What a dream to wear their exceptionally crafted fine jewels that honor Coco Chanel’s enduring motifs. Every piece is a testament to the atelier’s mastery of craft and storytelling.

What is your jewelry ethos?

I have always been attracted to jewelry that feels refined, understated, and timeless. Even my engagement ring consists of a simple setting. The same is true of my earrings. I tend to gravitate toward clean diamond hoops that hug the ear or delicate diamond studs. Now and then, I’ll stray from that vernacular, but I always find myself returning to dainty, finely crafted pieces that feel enduring. I want jewelry that stands the test of time, not something that is dictated by trends. If I stray from my jewelry ethos toward a bold, statement piece, I often find the design feels more of the moment than truly lasting. I will always be drawn to pieces that embody the subtle elegance and restraint of women I admire, like Grace Kelly or Audrey Hepburn. Vintage jewelry is something I am newly attracted to and am researching extensively as I build out my collection with pieces found at auction or from vetted sources.

What is your all-time favorite piece of jewelry?

My engagement ring. This piece, naturally, holds so much sentimental value and emotion from that chapter of my life. There is an entire story embedded within its design, from our courtship to the decision to spend our lives together. It began as a simple solitaire diamond, very minimal and classic, but about 10 years ago, I stopped wearing it. I was expressing myself differently at that point in my life, but it also bothered me that it no longer adorned my ring finger. So I asked Eva Fehren, a jeweler and dear friend at the time, to reset it for me, preserving its classic nature while giving it a modern edge. She framed the center diamond with a hexagonal pavé setting that wraps around the original stone, honoring its timeless simplicity while introducing a sharper, more contemporary sensibility.

How does your design background inform your jewelry choices?

Whether it’s interiors or jewelry design, I am always looking for beautiful craftsmanship, pieces that feel timeless and restrained. When I’m designing a space, there are moments when I want to draw your attention to something, while other times I want an element to recede. The same approach applies to how I wear jewelry. To showcase the exceptional diamond-studded Chanel lariat for this shoot, I chose a backless dress. There was thought and intention to how I purposefully guided the eye toward this dramatic piece cascading down my back. That is also how I design a space. A singular moment that captures your attention.

from left: No5 Drop earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds, Lion Solaire De Chanel ring in 18k white gold with diamonds, and Diamant Evanescent Transformable necklace in 18k white gold with diamonds by CHANEL High Jewelry; Groseilles necklace in galvanized copper by CLAUDE LALANNE, Bijoux Moteurs ring in silver with onyx, and Silver and Coral ring in silver with coral by JEAN DESPRES;  High Swirl Emerald earrings in 18k yellow gold with 4ct. emeralds and green jasper by FERNANDO JORGE; High Swirl Diamond ring in 18k yellow gold with 7.02ct. diamond and smoky quartz, and High Swirl Emerald ring in 18k yellow gold with 3.27ct. emerald and green jasper by FERNANDO JORGE

What do you look for in a piece of jewelry?

I look for pieces that honor craftsmanship and are imbued with the touch of the hand, designed to be passed down from one generation to the next. To me, the most enduring jewelry has an understated presence. It doesn’t overpower, but instead lends the wearer an honest confidence and an undeniable sense of self.

What is the most sentimental piece you own, and what is its backstory?

Perhaps one of the most sentimental pieces is a vintage cuff I purchased on a trip to Vienna. Travel has always played such an important role in my evolution as a designer. I typically bring home a piece for the house while abroad – a vase, a vessel, or a piece of glass – but on a recent trip to Vienna, a city that has profoundly shaped my design perspective, I purchased a vintage horn cuff. It was the first time I returned from my travels with jewelry instead of an object for the home.

Does travel play a big part in your collecting?

I am constantly seeking new and unique jewelry designs on my travels. Last year, I visited the historic city of Kyoto with Chanel to unveil its Reach for the Stars high jewelry collection. The celestial-themed launch honored Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s historic 1932 diamond collection and served as a final tribute to the late jewelry director Patrice Leguéreau. I was especially drawn to a series of brooches featuring the wing motif and traditional Japanese urushi lacquer created in a three-year collaboration with Kyoto lacquer master Yoshio Okada. I loved how they honored the cultural tradition of this material that has been used throughout history. Chanel’s reverence for beauty and attention to detail even in the smallest moments left me completely in awe. Their eye for aesthetics, their devotion to ritual, and their intentional approach to every aspect of their lives had such an impact on me personally and in my own work as a designer.

What is a fantasy piece you hope to acquire?

The Fernando Jorge high swirl diamond ring I wore for this shoot is such a fantasy piece. It features an extraordinarily rare 7.08-carat old mine cut, pear-shaped brown diamond embraced by hand-carved swirled smoky quartz. It’s definitely more of a statement than I’d usually make, but there is also this sophistication and refinement. His work is beautifully unique, unlike anything I’ve seen before. It is so artful and sculptural, allowing the material to speak for itself.

Taken from 10 Magazine USA Issue 7 – HERITAGE, LEGACY, FUTURE – out September 18! Order your copy here.

Photographer GREG KESSLER

Talent ATHENA CALDERONE

Text SARAH CRISTOBAL

Sittings editor ALMA DE GANAY

Photographer’s assistant KATERINA KALLOPOULOS

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