25 September 2026 |
Emporio Armani is awaiting the debut of Dario Vitale at the house. So instead of staging a full blown catwalk show, the women’s and men’s collections, designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco were exhibited on mannequins in the Armani show space. This allowed us to see up-close the fabrications and details and gain a fresh appreciation of the Emporio aesthetic. The two designers were perfectly in tune, creating light as air clothes and relaxed, breezy silhouettes.
Fabric was the key. Suiting came in crumpled linen and acid washed linen, made to look like distressed denim. The designers played with formality and informality, tailoring organza into suits worn with shirts and ties in the same fabric. It’s a credit to the atelier that these light as air pieces kept their silhouettes, taking Armani’s idea of lighting up the suit to an elegant extreme. A chewing gum white coat looked like cotton but was leather. Rock crystals provided sparkle trimming the collars of jackets and encrusted on vest worn underneath transparent suiting. The designers also played proportions, layering a short jacket over a longer one. The collection was light, but never insubstantial. Very Armani.
Photography courtesy of Emporio Armani.
