Susan Cianciolo is the embodiment of fashion meets art.
Flick through New York Fashion Week shows like Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler, and Rachel Comey, and you may see familiar faces on the catwalk. These artsy, cerebral brands love to mix in real people with models when it comes to casting their shows. The individual who arguably served as the blueprint for it all? Artist Susan Cianciolo, who has used a close circle of friends and family for the past two decades in her shows that combine the art and fashion worlds. Called the Run Collection, the 15th iteration was staged earlier this month, and I happened to be among those selected to walk in it.
The first Run Collection dates back to 1995 and consisted of handmade pieces constructed from found materials, recycled fabrics, and upcycled garments. Despite them being initially sold in a very brick-and-mortar fashion, Cianciolo’s work is better thought of as wearable art. Each creation holds a meaningful story for the artist as she often makes one-offs, as well as a series of drawings or textile, work to accompany her collections. Through the years, her shows have drawn praise and acclaim, including a memorable immersive experience in 2017 when she teamed up with the Whitney Museum to create a Run Restaurant. And inadvertently, Cianciolo has also become a fixture in the New York fashion world, inspiring a new wave of designers from Eckhaus Lattas’ Mike Eckahus and Zoe Latta to Sophie Andes-Gascon and Claire McKinney of SC103 — yes, those link totes that are all the rage.
It’s easy to see why Cianciolo is a cult figure. Her effervescent charm and wisdom is apparent as she takes you through her thought process. As she tells stories behind each piece that she has created, you get a peek into her highly creative mind. Nowadays, she’s shifted her work to be more art focused, staging her collections at galleries instead of fashion week. Her most recent show took place at Bridget Donahue, a downtown gallery with whom she has a long standing relationship.
When it came to the casting of her 15th Run Collection entitled Game of Life, Cianciolo wanted to include real people with whom she had a working relationship, solidifying a team of like-minded individuals that know her and her process. I luckily had worked with her back in 2021 when Bridgit Donahue was putting together a live auction of her pieces. Cianciolo reached out and I naturally accepted, despite having never walked in a fashion show.
The process began with a casual fitting a few days prior. Cianciolo shows me old pieces she plans to include, along with newer ones made for this collection. I’m encouraged to browse — she’s receptive to what I’m drawn to and what makes me feel comfortable. I poke around and notice two options: a long white embroidered skirt with a matching corset top and a bright pink polka dot bikini top with a gray sheer skirt. After trying each on, she pairs them with jewelry that she and jewelry designer Anna Santangelo have collaborated on for the show. They consist of beautifully crafted seashells intertwined with carefully sourced textiles. Cianciolo also adds subtle finishing touches, including adding a pair of netted sleeves. She jokingly mentions how this piece is probably older than me. Cianciolo describes her work as an intuitive process — she wants everyone to be wearing clothes that they are drawn to and feel like themselves. With that, my two looks for the show are secured.
On the day of the show, fans and friends like fellow designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh and photographer Nick Sethi flock downtown to Bridget Donahue. Backstage, the energy is warm and relaxed as Susan’s daughter, Lilac, and her friends help us get dressed. The cast is equally as joyful, as I overhear comments on how the looks matched everyone’s personal style perfectly. Lilac and her friends kick off the show with music, and then it’s our turn. Cianciolo’s instructions were clear, with the directive being to feel free to walk in any way you feel comfortable. That translates into everything from reading a poem to playing the guitar to casually strolling — the experience is meant to feel natural and true to each person. After we complete our walk, we finish with a group embrace. The air is giddy as we head backstage, smiling and applauding yet another successful Run Collection.
Susan Cianciolo: Light Workers – RUN 15 – Game of Life (Thank You Pine Trees) is open from May 31st – July 13th, 2024 at Bridget Donahue – 99 Bowery
From top to left: Claire McKinney & Sophie Andes Gascon, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Diamond Stingily, Iman Dabbous
All photos courtesy of Nick Sethi.
