7 March 2024 |
Drape, shape and gape was the mantra proposed by Kiko Kostadinov for its women’s AW24 collection. Designed by sibling duo Laura and Deanna Fanning, the 41-look offering used materials to explore the relationship between strength and vulnerability.
Stiff cord formed knee-grazing breeches and high-neck jackets that were neatly slashed to create incisions inspiring of tension and then release. Heavy velvets were spliced apart and stitched back together with delicate, mesh insets to create sleek, slender dresses. Asymmetric tops and shirt-shaped frocks were cut from satins, sheer crêpes and voile, and then gathered and draped to evoke a lightness that felt both natural and contrived. Heavy knitwear formed dresses and jumpers that blanketed the body, collecting around shoulders and waists. A collaboration with Levi’s resulted in an array of washed, brown denim pieces, culminating in a three-piece suit equipped with shearling hem, collar and cuffs.
The brand’s classic Mezulari bag debuted as a slouchier messenger-style carryall that was slung over shoulders and hung down hips as if it were melting. Textural earth-tone caps that mimicked the shaping of chainmail headdresses nodded to armoured resistance while modular jewellery was skinny and sharp-edged. Shoes were kept sturdy and seasonal, sporting rubber bottoms and tough, suede bodies. As one of the last shows of the season, it was a strong note to end on.
Photography courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov.
