10 October 2024 |
Consider the show Nicolas Ghesquière’s study of contrasts.
It takes a lot to revive weary editors after a non-stop month across New York, London, Milan, and finally Paris but Louis Vuitton did exactly that. As one of the last runway presentations of the season, set in the Louvre as evening fell, the mood felt akin to the final day of school. Everyone was in high spirits, made even more so by a show that was a jolt to the senses. Set on a rising catwalk covered in the brand’s signature trunks and featuring a rousing soundtrack that included four songs by Jamie XX off his new album In Waves, Nicolas Ghesquière capped off a year celebrating his 10th anniversary to great success.
Per the show notes, Ghesquière wanted to tackle the idea that French fashion is a formidable soft power with both a tradition of savoir-faire as well an art de vivre. For him, it’s equal parts sharp tailoring and romantic flounce — what happens when they come together and how do you reconcile the two? The opening look highlighted this study in contrasts, with a rounded shoulder jacket that brought to mind historical garments while the bare legs and chunky flat shoes felt more grounded in modern day. Following were a series of similarly shaped tops, worn with sporty biker shorts before segueing into shirred trousers worn with flouncy blazers, driving home the idea that two competing ideas can coexist in unexpected ways. From there the show transitioned to an array of dresses, both of the strong shouldered and slinky variety. But the truly special pieces? The dresses at the end which featured the work of artist Laurent Grasso, namely his series titled Studies into the Past. Consisting of boxy bodices and shimmering fringed skirts, they served as an eye-catching finish.
Being that it’s Louis Vuitton, the accessories were equally as strong, especially the parade of bags. From new iterations of the Neverfull tote to spins on the Speedy and embellished Petite Mailles, there was fresh life given to the brand’s classics. Also to note were the more playful styles including fan shaped designs and miniature pochettes that were worn with more utilitarian handbags. And for those seeking the editorial shoe of the season, the silk petal covered heels are sure to be hit. Place your bets now as to which house ambassador, Lisa or Zendaya, will be the first to debut them.
