10 October 2024 |
If there’s one thing Peter Do knows how to do, it’s give you a dozen outfit options or more from just one shirt. His SS25 collection, named Grounded, was no exception.
A cloudy Parisian morning invited the fash pack into the 16th Arrondissement and to the Guimet Museum, which exhibits one of the largest collections of Asian art outside of Asia-itself. The perfect setting to pay homage to Do’s Vietnamese roots, ancient statues were dotted all around the museum-turned-runway as the audience filed in and a euphoric, synthesised string melody allowed the show to begin.
The 32-piece-collection washed itself in muted hues of beige, grey, cream and black with small pops of turquoise and red appearing in one draped maxi dress. But button-up shirts were the collection’s strong point. Some took the form of capes draped downwards from neck to ankle, while others twirled around models’ torsos with tops unbuttoned to reveal triangles of skin. Veering away from his usual structured tailoring, Do tapped into a certain lightness across every ensemble.
He also experimented with fabric treatments this season, working with Philip Huang – a Thai expert in artisanal dyeing – to infuse the garments with natural hues using tree bark, indigo flower and leaves. This translated into slip dresses tickled with grey tie-dye and terracotta bomber jacket and short co-ords.
The show was called to a close by Vietnamese-American drag performer Plastique Tiara, who wore a lavish, floor-length blazer-dress. Long and light, Do is entering into his ‘very mindful, very demure’ era.
Photography courtesy of Peter Do.
