Chanel: Couture SS 25

Blackpink’s Jennie, Kylie Jenner, and Pamela Anderson were among the front row.

Following Matthieu Blazy’s appointment as Chanel’s Creative Director back in December, the conversation turned towards speculating what his vision would be for the future of one of fashion’s most iconic luxury labels. Given that Blazy’s debut won’t be until October of this year, we’ll have to wait a bit. Until then, the collections will be in the capable hands of Chanel Creation Studio. Ahead of their Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 show, 10 Magazine USA was given an exclusive premiere of a short film showcasing the behind-the-scenes magic at the brand’s ateliers in Paris which saw the likes Vanessa Paradis, Naomi Campbell, Marion Cotillard and Anna Mouglalis sharing their favorite couture memories. It offered a glimpse of what would be a tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s use of colors and her unconventional style as a couturière. 

Staged on a runway designed to resemble a double C, the show reflected a new day at Chanel — literally. Dawn, with its washed out pale hues kicked off the show with pastel shades making a return as seen on the buttermilk suit, lilac tweed dress with box pleats and a silk crêpe ensemble reminiscent of the sky at dawn. A mimosa-hued dress that looked equally at home both day and night perfectly captured the mood for spring with its powdered pink flounces. As the looks progressed, the colors grew steadily more saturated. Standouts include an orange-pink coat worn over a purple jacquard dress and a sensual full red dress. Dawn turned into dusk with embroideries mimicking stardust scattered on evening dresses in shades of navy, black, and white. 

The stars also aligned at the front row. Jennie from Blackpink arrived with a baby blue cape while Dua Lipa swooshed in, clad in a black one. Kylie Jenner was demure and courteous in a cropped Chanel suit, accented with a lunch box-style bag. Pamela Anderson continued her understated yet elegant streak clad in her full white look with minimum makeup.

It’s been proven that the house of Chanel can be dynamic and nimble, self-sustaining even without a creative leader. However, it’s arguable if collections over time can stay coherent and concise without a strong vision — after all, a series of tales without an overarching story that unifies them is just an isolated act. That being said, the archives left by Gabrielle Chanel followed by the highly creative Karl Lagerfeld years and the time Virginie Viard spent at the brand provides enough inspiration for the studios to keep reinventing. To quote from Stefano Pilati who reposted the Chanel documentary from 10 Magazine USA’s Instagram, “When you are blown away as you’ve never been in the last 50 years. The atelier shows how growing up with good taste roots wins everything”. 

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