In Biarritz, Matthieu Blazy pays homage to the brand’s roots while forging a new, modern identity.
Matthieu Blazy knows his Chanel history. That was evident from his debut show, with his careful understanding of what makes Gabrielle Chanel a designer for the modern times. And today, for his take on cruise 2027, Blazy’s attention to detail took center stage again. Instead of whisking editors and friends of the brand off to a far flung destination, as has become standard for resort runway presentations, Blazy opted for Biarritz. The reason? Its history as the location where Chanel first created her couture house in 1915, eschewing the salons of Paris for a town where creatives found solace and inspiration among the sand and surf. Setting up at Villa de Larralde, the boutique, ateliers, and apartment would eventually serve as the foundation for 31 Rue Cambon, the brand’s iconic boutique.
Today’s show, at Casino Municipal, draws from that elegant yet relaxed energy. Set among a series of mirrored rooms, the likes of Tilda Swinton, Nicole Kidman, Sofia Coppola, Michaela Coel, and more filtered in to take their seats. Brand Ambassador A$AP Rocky stole the show, clutching the latest Chanel maxi flap in hand. Bright pink and adorned with miniature ballet flats, they were actually a gift from Blazy for his daughter with Rihanna.
Opening with a black dress, Blazy nods not just to the little black dress but also Chanel’s use of jersey, which during her time was traditionally used for underwear. WIth its fluid silhouette, it was also a reference to Art Deco, an era of design that was bubbling up into the cultural consciousness during the early 1900s. From there he segues into workwear-inspired jackets and trousers, acknowledging Biarritz’s history of sailors and fishermen as well as the Basque stripe motif. But it wasn’t all practicality — Blazy dips into mermaid fantasies, with shimmering paillettes that resemble fish scales, swishy raffia, and delicate crochet dresses. Being that it’s a cruise collection, he also introduced his take on swimwear, complete with matching bathing caps.
Of course, it cannot be stated enough that Blazy is working wonders with accessories, especially with how his spring 2026 collection has been selling in stores. Don’t expect that hype to die down any time soon — if anything the bags, shoes, and jewelry from cruise 2027 will only whip up a new frenzy. From a larger than life tote to a waterproof take on the flap bag to Art Deco-inspired heels to what the brand is calling “barefoot heel caps”, there’s plenty to choose from. And given his devotees, they will certainly be choosing and shopping.