Coach: Ready-to-Wear SS27

WHAT BETTER WAY TO CELEBRATE 85 YEARS THAN WITH A SHOW TURNED INTO A BIG BASH?

It might have been a birthday party—Coach’s 85th anniversary—but creative director Stuart Vevers intentionally worked his way up to the festivities. It started somberly as the opening piano chords of “Marz” by John Grant filtered out to a crowd that included Elle Fanning, Storm Reid, and Troye Sivan. The song dances around the innocence of youth, those precarious moments before you’re even aware that adulthood is ahead. If anyone knows how to tap that vein, it’s Vevers—as much a fashion designer as he is an examiner of youth culture.

The color patterns were muted: grays, blacks, and taupes. Nineties-era bias-cut slip dresses were given a fall twist with full-length knit sleeves. There was plenty of suiting, but not of the buttoned-up variety. Blazers were scrunched up and worn around the waist with slouchy trousers. Floral lamé versions were worn nonchalantly by tousled-haired catwalkers. Outerwear came in the form of trenches in spliced silk fabrics, some with sheer panels at the back. And of course there was a parade of leather. Who doesn’t want a seasonless buttery bomber? Some even featured the brand’s kisslock closure and were available immediately after the show.

Accessories included the large Turnlock tote bag inspired by a 1970s silhouette. Smaller shoulder bags and clutches in shades of tobacco and gold dotted the runway too. Fun leather add-ons like printed newspapers and charms shaped like keys and sunglasses accented most looks.

As the show progressed, it became more of a celebration. Models wore birthday hats, carried gilded packages, and were generally covered in rainbow paillettes. Blazers, tops, and the runway finale dresses were made of shiny fabric reminiscent of iridescent wrapping paper, designed to make anyone who wears these pieces the life of the party. The giant bows at the back were also a nice touch.

With that, the tempo shifted, a curtain lifted, and a youth orchestra started playing the soaring 70s-era bop “Love Is the Message” by MFSB. As glitter fell from the rafters, a dance troupe vogued behind the fleet of models. Behind the curtain was a pink disco wonderland, which was Vevers’ signal that it was time to let loose. There were multiple bars, passed bites, and a dance floor that filled up quickly. Later in the evening, Violet Chacki took center stage, much to the delight of the amped up crowd.

Photography courtesy of Coach. 

coach.com

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