9 November 2026 |
See the Eternal City without falling for the tourist traps.
There is a particular feeling that comes with stepping onto the pavement in Rome. Every cobblestone is charged with history that stretches from the ancient Roman empire to the current pope. And while the Eternal City is best known for sights imbued with centuries of stories and mythology be it Bernini’s fountains or churches containing Caravaggio paintings, there’s another less familiar side worth exploring. Nowhere is that more evident than in Monti. The first and oldest neighborhood is best known for the Colosseum and the Forum but also serves as home to artisans, tiny boutiques, trattorias and wine bars. We spent four days diving into its paved hilly streets, guided by local designers, writers and chefs. Once you’re done with visiting the blockbuster cultural sites, this itinerary will slow you down and allow the city to come to you.
STAY
The recently opened Hotel Urbana, a Tribute Portfolio hotel on Via Urbana, sits right in the heart of Monti. Located in a restored 19th-century palazzo originally designed by Gaetano Koch in 1860, it has a history woven into Rome’s cultural heritage. Built as a home for the Costanzi family, Domenico Constanzi would go on to sell it to pay for the construction of the Teatro Costanzi, now known as the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. The opera house is a few streets over, reinforcing the way the neighborhood has deep connections across time.
With a total of 66 rooms, a fitness center, a bar, a rooftop terrace and restaurant, this Tribute Portfolio hotel is a successful example of what happens when heritage meets comfort and contemporary design. The modern updates do not conceal but rather elevate the original details, and the color palette is symbolic: the rich scarlet of the Roman pomegranate, the luminous cerulean blues of Brugnoli’s frescoes adorning some of the rooms, and the vibrant contrasts of Rione Monti. Such thoughtful details can be seen throughout the property, from the tiles in the lobby to the wallpaper in the restaurant.
The Junior Suites feature original frescoes on the ceilings, and a charming view over the surrounding square and church. With high ceilings and spacious rooms, it’s reminiscent of its private palazzo origins. You can imagine former residents hosting parties and drinking champagne as the sun pours into the windows.
Our first evening began on the Spritzeria Urbana rooftop. The sky had been moody all afternoon but just as we raised our glasses a rainbow appeared between the rain clouds above the rooftops. With seasonal cocktails in hand, this was a perfect start to the trip.
Breakfast deserves its own mention: The buffet is great, including the best fruit salad you will ever consume. Take your plate out to the courtyard. Surrounded by terracotta walls, take in the view of a beautiful pine tree (a symbol of Rome), and the bell tower of Santa Pudenziana rising above.
The wellness center is scheduled to open soon and will feature a pool, steam room and sauna. It’s a rare amenity for a hotel in the center of Rome, where you can’t dig more than a meter without ending up with an archaeological operation on site.
DINING AND DRINKING
Our first dinner was at Fondazione Alda Fendi, a superb restaurant inside a space where contemporary art lives in a historic palazzo. Fresh and modern while retaining its classic origins, the dishes were delicious and the wine was equally as excellent. It was the perfect example of Rome mixing old and new, honoring history while keeping it experimental and relevant.
For a good steak, go to Ristorante Tullio with its classic white tablecloths and great service. If you want a very high-end tasting menu, book Quid. The plating is beautiful with courses grounded in Roman tradition that will surprise and delight.
My favorite meal, though, was one we made ourselves. We visited the local outdoor food market with a professional chef who highlighted the merits of seasonal, local produce. From the market stalls to the butcher, we gathered everything we needed and went on to make a three course meal. There is real pleasure in learning to cook regional dishes from a culture that isn’t your own. The concierge of the hotel can facilitate similar cooking adventures.
WHAT TO SEE
The Opera is a beautiful building with so much history, including secret pathways once frequented by the legendary Maria Callas. From there wander up and down the hills of Monti. We met a local fashion designer who spoke about the importance of Roman craft and how small, independent businesses shape Roman lives. For your own shopping, don’t miss Schostal, a pajama, shirt and underwear store that is a chic and a less expensive answer to Charvet in Paris.
Whenever you pass a church, go in. They are sublime, and a pillar of Roman history. For museums, visit the Villa Borghese, home of a breathtaking garden and paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian. For a calmer, more spontaneous visit, try the National Roman Museum, which showcases ancient sculptures, frescoes and mosaics.
If you have time, and you should make time, head out to an olive grove outside Rome. In the Sabina region we took part in the olive harvest, followed by an olive oil tasting, and it turned out to be one of the best parts of the whole trip. The landscape is breathtaking, the food is delicious, and it makes you want to quit city life to plant some trees.
Rome at its heart, is a destination to get lost in. The city itself is a living museum, you can find the best food on every corner, and the people are soulful and proud. As long as you are staying in the right neighborhood at the right hotel, the rest will fall into place.
