Within the decadent salons of 3, Avenue George V, where the late and great Hubert de Givenchy would work his sartorial magic, a procession of dandy men appeared, bringing with them a nonchalant air of elegance. It was the house’s first outing following the departure of former-creative director Matthew M. Williams’ in December, and the Givenchy studio, inspired by the remarkable character and wardrobe of the house’s founder, pulled from his archives, both personal and professional, for AW24.
Dapper models strode through the afternoon tea-style set-up, serving an infallible expression of gentlemanliness with every step. At first, they wore a recontextualised version of the dressmaker’s uniform – a simple blouse blanche (lab coat) worn with tailored black trousers and a tucked-in tie. This was followed by a series of sapphire suits and coats that were engineered in the haute couture ateliers.
Wrapped around fingers, were new versions of the gold signet ring Mr Givenchy had always worn. His bold logo belt was honoured as well, with the revival of a 2G emblem used on buckles. His penchant for eccentric gestures in how he dressed was likewise interpreted as unshorn shearling and a twirling synthetic hair embellishment employed on military-inspired outerwear. Long necklaces celebrated his propensity for bejewelling a woman’s back.
Without the guidance of a creative director, the studio navigated the duality of Mr Givenchy’s public and personal wardrobes with grace, serving a dandy palette cleanser before the next era of the house – whatever that may be – begins.
Photography courtesy of Givenchy.