Anthony Vaccarello is a masterful communicator at Saint Laurent. His message? Total chic, from head to toe. Jumpsuits and safari looks formed the basis of the collection, both of which were first introduced by Yves in 1968. Their consummate practicality and utilitarian style appealed to Vaccarello, who was keen to add this looser, more pragmatic element to his own Saint Laurent vocabulary. Pioneering women like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland were in his head as he sent out different iterations of safari-pocketed looks. His models strode like stylish super soldiers on an elevated outdoor catwalk, strewn with marble monoliths, with the Eiffel Tower lit up behind like a beacon. Apart from a few flouncy chiffon dresses, the evening looks followed the same silhouettes as the daywear, but in sheer fabrics.
What made it total chic? The couture-level precision of the cut and the head-to-toe styling. The models wore their hair slicked back, with smoky eyes and bold red lipstick, lavish gold earrings and bracelets. Waists were cinched with leather belts (add them to your ‘new season’ cart); hands sheathed in leather gauntlets were thrust, nonchalantly into pockets. Heels were uniformly high. Saint Laurent call the look “assertive sophistication”. We call it pure Paris.
Photography courtesy of Saint Laurent.