Giambattista Valli’s AW24 couture collection was like a midsummer’s night dream doused in decadence. Moseying through the Pavillon Vendôme, a conveyor belt of extravagant gowns in vivid cupcake colours – yellow, pink, red, green, white, blue – emerged, worn by models with the effortless poise of a princess. Soundtracked by a live composition by Thomas Roussel, performed by J.A. Jayant on a bamboo bansuri flute and Narendra Ranjan Gandharbra on the sitar, it was an utterly glorious outing.
The unfettered frothiness was nothing new for the designer, whose opus consists of dramatic romanticism and voluminous femininity. But there was an air of modernity we haven’t yet seen from him.
Some models sported floor-sweeping frocks, their faces painted periwinkle or pink and shrouded by draped hoods. Others stepped out in heaps and heaps of silk, chiffon, tulle, gossamer, organza and muslin, elevated with hand-done embroidery and trains crafted for swooping out of rooms in drastic fashion. Marigolds, carnations and peonies danced across the opulent ball gowns, bringing a truly summery feel to the range, wherein each look was named for a flower, bouquet or gemstone.
With the girls’ hair slicked into low ponytails and flower petals peppering their cheeks, the collection was enough to make anyone wearing it feel like royalty.
Photography by Daniele Oberrauch.